![]() Once everything was hardened - the two ridges were carefully filed down flush with the board - then the entire area was gently sanded smooth - scratch polish and lemon oil applied - and the 1st fret and nut were reinstalled. I sprayed an accelerator on the glue, so that the dust and glue combination instantly hardened, as you see in the picture below. A razor blade was used to sift some rosewood dust into the slots - piled up above the surface of the fretboard - and then crazy glue was run along the slot. Once the glue was dry, a combination of rosewood dust and crazy glue was used to fill the slots left by cutting the fretboard. Now came the task of putting all the pieces back in place - the replacement pieces of maple were filed down to match the contour of the piece of fretboard that was removed - and then the piece of fretboard was glued back in place. I will say that I tried this neck out on a bass after the repair and I didnt notice any rattle - not too surprising since it was under tension too. The challenge can be in threading the truss rod into the neck though once its wrapped, since its a very tight fit. One step I did not do - which has been recommended to me by Jim Mouradian since then - was to wrap the truss rod in either electrical tape or very thing wire-shrink wrap so there wouldn't be any chance of the trussrod rattling in the neck. When the threaded ends were near the anchor, I placed loctite on the threads and then used my homemade tool (I need to take a picture of it!) to twist the truss rod from the base of the neck and thread it tightly into the anchor.Īfter allowing the loctite to set for several hours - and testing the rods secureness - I fitted a narrow piece of maple over the slot for the rod so that it wouldnt rattle in the neck. I placed a new Stew-mac anchor into the neck, using small pieces of maple and glue to tightly lodge it - and then threaded the new truss rod in from the base of the neck. I then removed some of the maple to allow access to the anchor and truss rod slot. Then using a chisel that was just a little narrower than the piece of the fretboard I was removing, I carefully got under the edge of the board at the nut slot - and peeled up the rectangular piece of the fretboard. I used a Dremel tool with a thin cutting wheel to cut down vertically at the first fret slot and the nut slot. Then I made two longitudinal cuts from the fret slot to the nut slot - repeating until I had hit the underlying maple and trying to follow the grain lines in the rosewood. I first removed the string nut and 1st fret. ![]() After a little scratch polish and lemon oil on the surrounding fretboard, the dot looked identical to the others on the neck !īut onto the truss-rod repair. I decided to replace the clay dot with a small amount of cellulose filler that matched the color - which I fine sanded smooth with the surrounding fretboard, and then soaked with "thin" HotStuff glue before sanding it again. So I received the neck - which had been heavily played over the years and was missing the headstock decal and one clay dot. The other picture is a 66 Jazz neck project - someone cleverly peeled off the fretboard !! Someday I'll fix it - its an original Olympic White headstock. The diagram below is what I sent the owner of the neck - proposing my repair. But in the case of a broken rod or anchor - or simply to be sure the rod is securely anchored - its best to have direct access to the truss rod anchor. In most cases with Fenders, the truss rod simply becomes unthreaded from the anchor - Fender never thought of a little spot weld to old it all together - and I have - once - succesfully re-threaded a truss rod into the anchor with loctite on the threads (I have a weird little tool I made to let me hold the truss rod and thread it in from the bottom of the neck). So anyway - the truss rod on this bass apparently broken at the anchor - meaning that I had to get TO the anchor to put in a new anchor and thread in a new truss-rod. ![]() Just click on the model and download the file.I did this repair as part of a complex deal to get a slab-board Fender Precision P-bass/Jazz bass neck with a C.A.R. Our ‘online’ manuals are available in Adobe PDF format.
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